Camper Van To The Coast
I was back in my van today, except this time I was a passenger, not the driver.
Marty (who I sold the camper to) took the van up the coast and we had a late, but great, session at Whiterocks (btw you need to be registered to see this pic).
It was beautiful glassy sea surface conditions, 2-3ft waves and a nice enough wait between sets so that you could have a chat.
When I got out the back I realised I knew everyone out there, if not by name then at least to say hello to and that always makes for a really mellow surf.
Pat was out there, who Marty & I know from years ago and we hadn't seen him since Seans wedding in October. I learnt to surf on Pats T&C board which he still rides today.
Anyway, Marty rode a great wave, he was super-stoked and I stayed in until it was so dark I was basically surfing blind, which just capped of a great little session.
The van seemed to have a good day too!
b.
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