This blog is going to have surfing, snowboarding, tech stuff and maybe some 'meaning of life' stuff if I'm feeling particularly stoked.

Monday, December 27, 2004

Sombre Surfing

We had a great surf today, even though the swell was pretty small, 2-3ft or so, nice for longboarding and definitely surfable.

I surfed with Marty and his cousin Karen today. Karen's a star striker with a ladies football team in London and pretty game, to face December conditions on the North coast.

Pat and Brendan (Sean Burns brother) paddled out after about half an hour and for a while there was more talking than surfing but there were long periods between decent sets so that wasn't such a bad thing.

It was great to get back in the water after the excesses of Christmas but I found it difficult not to think of the thousands who had lost their lives in Asia, lives taken by the very force we were harnessing for fun.

Anyone who has surfed in big waves (i.e. any waves they feel are big, that can be 5ft to 15ft) will appreciate the power of the ocean and know all too well that death (or one of its close neighbors) can feel very close when faced with that kind of power.

It's a humbling time to be a surfer.